Ruta Continues Day Three – Sheep and Tea

Camino Mozarabe, Spain

La Peza to Guadix – 16 miles

We left La Peza early and crunched through frost covered land to climb above the town. Soon we began to see some of the cave houses this region is famous for building.

These cave houses go deep into the hills with chimneys coming out the hill top and elaborate fronts welcoming visitors. We toured a cave museum in Guadix and it was very comfortable and warmer than outdoors. The docent said it’s a fairly constant temperature throughout the year.

At one point we lost our usual trail and saw solar panels ahead. As we walked up to see them a herd of sheep came trotting towards us bleating as the shepherds drove them to pasture. I smiled and said we were lost pilgrims but that all was well.

We continued towards Guadix only to encounter a canyon blocking our way with no clear way down. I looked back and saw one of the shepherds coming towards us. I asked about a path and he offered to lead us to a road into town. We happily acquiesced and had a lively conversation about American and European politics. As with most people we’ve encountered he’s deeply worried about Trump and general trends towards isolationism.

Rejoining our road I saw an English looking woman taking pictures. I greeted her and soon we were having tea and biscuits in the RV she and her husband were driving across Europe. They emigrated to Australia from England 50 years ago and have driven across South Korea, Siberia and Mongolia!

La Peza was a key place along the Muslim Christian trade route and site of a battle with the French in the Peninsular War.

The empty winding road led through a tunnel in the rock.

Red rock and canyons.

A freshly built straw bale house.

Los Baños, home to thermal baths operating since Roman times.

Cave houses in Marchal.

Solar farm


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