The Ruta Continues Day Five – Snow and a Warm Fire

Camino Mozarabe, Spain

Alquife to Hueneja – 13 miles

The night was cold and I was glad for the mound of blankets. Waking up we saw it had snowed several inches! Our host brought breakfast and assured us it was just a dusting and all would be fine.

Albergue Lacho

Road out of Alquife



We set off and passed a huge shuttered iron mine. From there on to breakfast in Callahorra, site of a large renaissance castle. The light rain increased and the sky closed in; soon the distant wind turbines vanished into the clouds.

Shuttered iron mine

Callahorra Castle

Arriving in Ferreira, (a settlement based on iron ore extraction since Roman times), we found the door to the Moorish architecture museum open and a school tour going on. We joined the group and learned how the still standing towers were built. 




The rain continued and we went into Dolar to find an open bar with a warm fire and great food.

Forest where children were sledding.

Now we’re at an albergue for pilgrims in Huanaje and for the first time we’re with other people: a man from Spain headed north and a woman from Scotland adding to her other Caminos.

Walking through Huanaje to the albergue.

Ruta Continues Day Three – Sheep and Tea

Camino Mozarabe, Spain

La Peza to Guadix – 16 miles

We left La Peza early and crunched through frost covered land to climb above the town. Soon we began to see some of the cave houses this region is famous for building.

These cave houses go deep into the hills with chimneys coming out the hill top and elaborate fronts welcoming visitors. We toured a cave museum in Guadix and it was very comfortable and warmer than outdoors. The docent said it’s a fairly constant temperature throughout the year.

At one point we lost our usual trail and saw solar panels ahead. As we walked up to see them a herd of sheep came trotting towards us bleating as the shepherds drove them to pasture. I smiled and said we were lost pilgrims but that all was well.

We continued towards Guadix only to encounter a canyon blocking our way with no clear way down. I looked back and saw one of the shepherds coming towards us. I asked about a path and he offered to lead us to a road into town. We happily acquiesced and had a lively conversation about American and European politics. As with most people we’ve encountered he’s deeply worried about Trump and general trends towards isolationism.

Rejoining our road I saw an English looking woman taking pictures. I greeted her and soon we were having tea and biscuits in the RV she and her husband were driving across Europe. They emigrated to Australia from England 50 years ago and have driven across South Korea, Siberia and Mongolia!

La Peza was a key place along the Muslim Christian trade route and site of a battle with the French in the Peninsular War.

The empty winding road led through a tunnel in the rock.

Red rock and canyons.

A freshly built straw bale house.

Los Baños, home to thermal baths operating since Roman times.

Cave houses in Marchal.

Solar farm


Ruta Continues Day Two – Snow Capped Peaks and Kindness

Camino Mozarabe, Spain

Quentar to La Peza – 18 miles 

Today was one of the toughest days so far; lots of miles to the next village and a big climb into the mountains. 

It was worth it though! The scenery was filled with sweeping views of the highest mountain in Spain, Mulhacen, nestled in with her sister peaks and blooming rosemary, almond and cherry trees scented the cool air.

We slept at a pilgrimage “refugio” in La Peza, ate dinner at a local bar and shopped at a small store for breakfast and trail food. Once again we were amazed and grateful for how kind people have been on this trip. We have yet to experience anything but warmth, despite our often limited language skills.

Cemetery on the outskirts of Quéntar.

Blooming almonds on the trail up to the pass.

Looking towards the Sierra Nevadas and still going up!

The route is well signed with these placards and yellow arrows; it’s like a treasure hunt.

Near a quarry there’s a danger warning.

Collecting pine tree resin.


Heading down towards La Penza.

Church in La Penza.


The albergue is supported by donations.

One of several rooms. We were the only guests this night.

Ruta Day 10 – Granada!

Route of the Caliphate, Spain

Moclin to Granada – 15 miles plus a bus ride

Waking up at the church we breakfasted on bread and coffee then walked to a local walking path, Ruta del Golizino, and began a descent to the town of Olivares. 

On the the way we met a group of middle school students out for a walk on the path with their teachers. We enthusiastically exchanged Spanish and English phrases then went our separate ways.

Leaving the mountains we hit flat farmland surrounding Granada. Seeing this rich area helped us understand how the Granadian emirate remained independent for another 250 years after the fall of the Muslim capital of Córdoba.

Good morning Moclin.

View towards Olivares.

Alfred checking the route with the Moclin Castle in the background.

Down the trail!

On the way to Pinos Puente.

“Las flechas Amarillas” (yellow arrows), mark the Route of the Caliphate and were well placed to augment our maps.

Church in the hamlet of Bucor.

Horses on the outskirts of Pinos Puente. Arriving here things seemed grittier with more graffiti and abandoned factories.

One image said “this is the graffiti of unemployment”. We walked into town and took a bus to Granada.